5.20am. Quite the rolling thunder this morning. I can hear it from my place and that’s 3km back from the coast. The new swell is coming.
The night sky showed no stars but it should clear today. Time to ditch the laptop and get down there.
8.40am Plenty of drama out there this morning. Still a touch raw but big, thick lines starting to appear. Caught a few of the local youngsters taking to a fairly hefty slab and just playing with it. They breed them tough over here.
Plenty of size coming. It’s looking hectic to say the least.
Click on them to see them bigger.
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