For most surfers Autumn is more than a change of season. It marks the start of the golden period for swell and general surf conditions.

The last few days have been fairly solid around here. A real swell with lots of power and lines. Plenty of crew getting a slice but with the size comes a degree of respect/caution.

Next week looks bigger again and with good winds. This “golden period” is going to deliver.

Stay tuned.

A few comments on three of the images I shot this morning.

The square image. This guy made this amazing take off and pulled into the thickest barrel only to flop over the front of the board once he was inside (and all the hard work was done). He should have backed himself. It stayed open and could have been the ride of the day.

The young guy bottom turning in the black and white image. Today was pretty solid and this spot stands short and sharp and throws a thick mean lip. The take off is more of a free fall. This local kid is a ripper and took it on with complete disregard. Immediately after this shot he rode through the longest barrel and emerged way inside. An amazing tube ride but considering the guy is 13 years old and weights 40 odd kilo dripping wet even better.

The boogie board image. When I was on the east coast I held these guys in contempt. I mean why would you bother. Catch a good wave and all you can do is helicopter spins on the wave face. Over here it is a different matter. The seriousness of the drop/ barrel combinations that they ride here is eye opening. Yes I am converted, full respect to you guys.

Humourous situation of the day was watching a boogie rider drop in on a SUP from a pack of stand up surfers. The boogie got barrelled and the SUP was washed in, good work mate.