Last night was special. I returned to my old stomping grounds and had the best surf I’ve had there in years. It wasn’t the most perfect or biggest. It was just the most fun. I arrived home with the biggest smile and really counting my blessing.
Today was the same. The surf was significantly larger and way more dramatic.
I loved it.
I don’t live here anymore but truthfully a part of my heart does. It is my home when I am not at home.
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